Nicole Junkerman in an ivory blazer with her arms crossed, a sleek editorial portrait against a concrete wall.

Seasonal

Nicole Junkerman on Mid-July: Slow Travel and the Books That Suit It

The middle of July asks very little of anyone. A case for travelling slowly through the settled part of the season, and for the kind of reading that keeps an unhurried journey company.

The middle of July asks very little of anyone. A case for travelling slowly through the settled part of the season, and for the kind of reading that keeps an unhurried journey company.

By the middle of July the year has stopped climbing. The season is no longer arriving, and it has not yet begun to leave. For a fortnight or so it simply sits, wide and settled, with nothing much left to prove. Nicole Junkerman finds this the easiest stretch of the whole calendar to travel through, and the reason is almost embarrassingly simple: the middle of a season makes no demands. Nothing needs catching. Nothing is about to close. Mid-July is the one moment in the year when going slowly costs you nothing at all.

Travelling slowly through these weeks is less a method than a permission. It means choosing one place rather than three, and then staying long enough that the place stops performing and starts simply carrying on around you. It means arriving without a list. It means letting the second morning be the same as the first, and finding that this is the point rather than the failure. A slow journey in the settled part of summer has a shape you cannot force in any other month, because in July the days are long enough to be wasted generously and warm enough to make hurry feel faintly ridiculous.

What surprises most people is how much this changes the job a book has to do. A book carried through a slow mid-July is not there to fill time, because there is no shortage of time. It is not there to be got through, because nothing is waiting on the other side of it. It is there as company, in the plain sense of the word: something to be with, in a room you do not know very well, in the flat middle of an afternoon when the town has gone quiet and there is genuinely nothing to do. That is a real job, and not every book can hold it.

The reading that suits a slow journey tends to be reading that does not mind being interrupted. This is the first and most practical rule of the thing. On a slow trip you are not reading in a single unbroken stretch; you are reading in the gaps, and the gaps are irregular. Twenty minutes before anyone else is awake. An hour under an awning while the heat does its worst. The last of the light on a step outside. A book that resents this treatment, that punishes you for closing it and demands you reconstruct a chain of argument every time you come back, is the wrong book for a journey, however good it might be at a desk in November. The right one is patient. You can leave it and return without penalty, and it takes you back exactly where you were.

Which is why the essayistic, the episodic, and the collected suit a slow summer so well. Anything built in pieces travels beautifully: short chapters, self-contained sections, writing that finishes a thought and then stops. You are never more than a few pages from a natural place to put it down, which paradoxically means you read more of it, not less. The same goes for the diary and the letter and the notebook kept by someone else, all of which are made of pieces by nature and none of which mind being dipped into. Poetry belongs here too, for exactly the same reason and to an even greater degree.

Then there is the reading that has some quiet relation to where you are. Not the guide, and not the history of the town you happen to be sitting in, which tends to turn the trip into a syllabus. Something looser: a book that shares the weather, or the temperament, or the pace of the place, without ever mentioning it. The connection stays in your head rather than on the page, and that is what makes it pleasant. Reading that is about your surroundings can make you dutiful. Reading that merely rhymes with them makes the whole trip feel of a piece. The journal makes the longer version of this argument in its notes on reading your way through a new city, and mid-July is when it works best of all.

Re-reading deserves a word, because a slow journey is one of the few occasions that really justifies it. When you already know how it ends, you stop reading for the ending, and what is left is the texture: the sentences, the weather in the prose, the pleasure of watching something be done well. That is an unusually good match for a week when you have deliberately arranged to have nowhere to be. The book you already know is also the book you cannot get wrong, which counts for something when you are choosing in advance and cannot come back for another.

And there is the reading that has no purpose whatsoever. Mid-July is the wrong fortnight for the demanding thing you have been meaning to get to, the improving book that is really an item on a list. Bring it and it will sit in the bag, faintly reproachful, and you will read something else. Better to admit this at the packing stage and choose by appetite instead, which is the honest way to choose anything. The Reading Room is built around that principle, and the packing notes take the same view of what actually earns its weight in a bag.

What ties all of it together is that a slow journey and a patient book want the same thing from you, which is your attention without your urgency. Give the middle of July a place you are not trying to finish and a book you are not trying to finish either, and the two arrange themselves. The case for going at this pace at all is set out in the journal's notes on slow travel, and the wider Travel Journal keeps returning to it, but mid-July is the fortnight that proves it without any argument being necessary.

So let the middle of the season be the middle of the season. Stay somewhere long enough to be bored by it, which is usually the day before you start to love it. Carry something you can put down. And when you want another thread to follow, the journal is always open, and the Nicole Junkerman home page is the gentlest place to begin again.

Explore more of the journal: Reading Room and Travel Journal, or return to the Nicole Junkerman home page.

← Back to the blog